Tung Shan Fat Mun

🏯 Tung Shan Fat Mun is an iconic stone paifang (archway) located in Ngong Ping, Lantau Island, Hong Kong. Built in the 1950s and funded by British barrister and political figure Brook Bernacchi, it serves as the starting point of the famous 『Fat Mun Ancient Trail』 (also known as the Tei Tong Tsai Ancient Trail). Not only is it a key pathway leading to the Wisdom Path and Po Lin Monastery, but back in the day before modern transport, it was a vital transport hub for villagers and monks travelling between Tung Chung and the Ngong Ping plateau. Passing through this gateway leads you into an ancient, peaceful mountain trail built along the hillside. Shaded by lush trees and lined with old monasteries, the trail offers a serene vibe completely miles away from the bustling city.

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📌 Basic Information

Item Details

📍 Location East of Ngong Ping Plateau, Lantau Island, Hong Kong (near the Wisdom Path and Po Lin Monastery)

🏯 Main Structure A stone paifang (archway). The front features the inscription 『東山法門』 (Tung Shan Fat Mun), while the back is inscribed with 『鳶飛魚躍』 (Kites Flying and Fish Leaping) 🦅🐟. The back also bears an English inscription: 『TO THE GREAT MONK SING WAI THERE IS NO TIME WHAT IS MEMORY』, showcasing a unique blend of Chinese and Western cultures.

📅 History & Era Existed before the 1950s and was recorded in the 1958 *Lantau Island Chronicle*. According to historical records, the early archway was funded by Brook Bernacchi, a prominent British King’s Counsel (KC) and one of Hong Kong’s earliest pro-democracy political figures (who operated a tea plantation 🍵 in Ngong Ping at the time).

✨ Cultural Value One of the six major attractions on the Ngong Ping Fun Walk. It links up several mountain retreats and huts, including the Nei Lak Monastery 🧘 and Tei Tong Tsai Po Lam Zen Monastery 🏯, making it one of Hong Kong’s rare Buddhist cultural ancient trails.

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⛰️ Geographical Features

The location of Tung Shan Fat Mun was brilliantly chosen. Situated at a high mountain col (the depression between two ridges) in central Lantau, it perfectly captures the dual shifts in terrain and climate:

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🌬️ Natural Wind Gap & Air Convergence The archway sits at the mouth of a gorge between Lantau Peak 🗻 (Hong Kong’s second-highest peak at 934m) and Nei Lak Shan (751m). Acting as a natural 『wind gap,』 moist sea breezes from Tung Chung Bay rush up the valley and cool down instantly upon reaching the Ngong Ping plateau, making the area around Tung Shan Fat Mun highly prone to heavy mist and fog.

👀 Silhouette & Scenic Views Looking east from Tung Shan Fat Mun, the view stretches all the way down the narrow Tei Tong Tsai Valley, offering a clear sight of Tung Chung New Town, Hong Kong International Airport at Chek Lap Kok ✈️, and the vast Lingdingyang 🌊. Clear mornings or evenings offer a perfect vantage point where the mountains meet the sea, while foggy days wrap the area in an aura of religious mystery.

🌱 Hydrology & Ecological Intersection Just below the archway lies one of the upstream sources of the Tung Chung River. Thanks to long-term legal protection and its location within the Po Lin Monastery conservation area 🏯, the surrounding native secondary forest 🌳 remains perfectly intact. Rare plants native to Lantau, such as the Hong Kong Camellia 🍵 and Incense Tree, can be found here, and it also serves as a habitat for the Short-legged Toad 🐸 and rare butterflies 🦋.

🚶 Starting Point of Fat Mun Ancient Trail The Fat Mun Ancient Trail extends about 4km downwards from Tung Shan Fat Mun, gently descending along the valley to Shek Mun Kap Village. Built along the mountain contours, the stone steps are stable and not too steep, offering sweeping views of Tung Chung 🏘️ and the airport ✈️ along the way.

🌫️ Unique Microclimate & Ecology Due to the high elevation and valley-facing position, the area is shrouded in mist year-round. During spring and summer, stunning sea-of-clouds spectacles often form, turning the gateway and surrounding woods into a dreamlike 『Buddhist Kingdom of the South Sky』; surrounded by dense secondary and fung shui forests, the trail boasts incredibly rich ecological resources.

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✨ Existing Features

Inscriptions: The back originally read 『鳶飛魚躍』 (Kites Flying and Fish Leaping), but the current version has been changed to 『南天福地』 (Blessed Land of the Southern Sky).

Signs of Rebuilding: Differences in calligraphy, pillar shapes, and decorations compared to vintage photos indicate that the archway has been rebuilt over the years.

Buddhist Significance: Serving as the gateway to Po Lin Monastery, it symbolises practitioners entering the realm of Buddhist teachings (Dharma).

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📖 Cultural Significance

Buddhist Symbolism: It represents the spirit of 『entering the Dharma gateway,』 echoing the Zen concept of the 『Tung Shan School.』

Historical Value: It stands as a testament to the cultural exchange between Westerners and Buddhist monks during Hong Kong’s colonial era.

Tourist Landmark: Today, it remains an important route for visitors heading to the Tian Tan Buddha (Big Buddha) and Po Lin Monastery.

🏛️ Architectural Aesthetics & Couplet Meaning

While the stone paifang of Tung Shan Fat Mun is not massive, its structure and inscriptions hold deep meaning. It is a classic Chinese stone archway featuring a traditional 『three-bay, four-pillar』 design with a rustic, antique look:

Front Inscription: 【東山法門】(Tung Shan Fat Mun)

Inscribed by the founding fathers or early senior monks of Po Lin Monastery (some suggest it was copied from the original during later renovations).

『Tung Shan』 (East Mountain): This references the 『Tung Shan School』 from Huangmei, Hubei, China (where the Fifth Patriarch of Zen, Grand Master Hongren, founded the school, later influencing the Sixth Patriarch Huineng). Lantau monks named it as such to show that their teachings trace back to the orthodox Southern School of Zen.

『Fat Mun』 (Dharma Gateway): Refers to the path through which practitioners enter and attain enlightenment.

Back Inscription: 【鳶飛魚躍】(Kites Flying and Fish Leaping)

Origin: Taken from the *Classic of Poetry (Book of Odes)*: 『The hawk flies up to heaven, the fishes leap in the deep.』

Zen Interpretation: Hawks soaring in the sky and fish splashing in the water represent nature at its most vibrant and free. In Buddhist and Confucian contexts, these four words signify that 『all living things have their place, and life goes on endlessly,』 serves as a metaphor for the ultimate state of spiritual practice, where the mind is as free and unattached as birds and fish.

📜 Historical Anecdote: When a British KC Met the East’s Buddhist Gateway

Behind the construction and renovation of Tung Shan Fat Mun lies a beautiful piece of history showing Westerners and local Buddhists living in perfect harmony:

💡 Bernacchi and the Ngong Ping Tea Garden: The archway was funded or helped restored in the mid-20th century by Brook Bernacchi. Bernacchi was a British expatriate, one of Hong Kong’s first Queen’s Counsels, and the founder of the Reform Club of Hong Kong, an early post-war pro-democracy political group.
Deeply in love with Lantau’s natural scenery, he founded the 『Ngong Ping Tea Garden』 in 1948 (which was once Hong Kong’s only commercial tea plantation), employing many local villagers and ex-offenders. To make it easier for tea plantation workers, villagers, and visiting monks to hike up and down the mountain, he funded the construction of paths, including this distinctly oriental 『Tung Shan Fat Mun』 archway. This piece of history reflects the early days of Lantau Island, where East met West, and religion and commerce shared a unique, harmonious bond.

🗺️ Surrounding Buddhist Cultural Network (Tei Tong Tsai Ancient Trail)

Nei Lak Monastery: Right next to Tung Shan Fat Mun, it offers an incredibly tranquil environment and serves as a retreat for monks undergoing solitary meditation.

Po Lam Zen Monastery: Located halfway down the ancient trail in Tei Tong Tsai, it was developed and expanded by Venerable Master Sing Yat. To this day, the monastery strictly upholds the traditional Zen practice of 『combining farming with meditation.』 Monks grow their own vegetables, chop wood, and carry water, keeping commercial tourism completely out. It is one of the few places in Hong Kong that still maintains a pure lifestyle of ascetic practice.

Lo Han Monastery: Located near the end of the trail close to Shek Mun Kap, it is built against the hillside and features the famous Lo Han Spring.

🥾 In-Depth Hiking Tips & Route Info

If you want to fully experience the geography and culture of this route, here are the detailed itinerary specs:

Item Details

🚍 Recommended Route Tung Chung MTR Station ➔ Take Bus 34 to Shek Mun Kap Village ➔ Lo Han Monastery ⛩️ ➔ Fat Mun Ancient Trail (Tei Tong Tsai Country Trail) ➔ Po Lam Zen Monastery 🏯 ➔ Tung Shan Fat Mun 🏯 ➔ Wisdom Path ➔ Ngong Ping Village

📏 Distance & Ascent Approx. 4.5 km, with a one-way vertical ascent of around 400 metres.

⏱️ Time Needed Around 2.5 to 3 hours (depending on how long you stay at the monasteries along the way).

🛤️ Trail Conditions 100% stone steps, paved concrete paths, or stone-paved ancient trails. Excellent trail conditions, but the continuous uphill climb will definitely give your knees and thighs a solid workout.

💡 Notes & Handy Tips

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🤫 In-Depth Travel Etiquette Many of the retreats and monasteries along the way (such as Po Lam Zen Monastery 🏯) are places of quiet practice for monks and nuns. When entering these areas and the ancient trail, please keep your voice down 🤫, do not make loud noises, strictly avoid littering 🚯, and do not wander into the private living quarters of the monks.

💡 Hiking Tips If you want to retrace the steps of the grand masters and monks on their pilgrimage back in the day, you can choose to start from Tung Chung Town Centre, pass through Shek Mun Kap and Tei Tong Tsai, and hike up the Fat Mun Ancient Trail to arrive at Tung Shan Fat Mun 🏯, the walk takes about 2.5 to 3 hours. Although the trail consists of well-maintained stone steps and concrete paths, you will be tackling a continuous 400m vertical climb ⛰️, which demands a fair bit of stamina. Remember to bring plenty of water 💧 before hitting the trail!

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Item	Details
📍 Location	East of Ngong Ping Plateau, Lantau Island, Hong Kong (near the Wisdom Path and Po Lin Monastery)
🏯 Main Structure	A stone paifang (archway). The front features the inscription 『東山法門』 (Tung Shan Fat Mun), while the back is inscribed with 『鳶飛魚躍』 (Kites Flying and Fish Leaping) 🦅🐟. The back also bears an English inscription: 『TO THE GREAT MONK SING WAI THERE IS NO TIME WHAT IS MEMORY』, showcasing a unique blend of Chinese and Western cultures.
📅 History & Era	Existed before the 1950s and was recorded in the 1958 Lantau Island Chronicle. According to historical records, the early archway was funded by Brook Bernacchi, a prominent British King’s Counsel (KC) and one of Hong Kong’s earliest pro-democracy political figures (who operated a tea plantation 🍵 in Ngong Ping at the time).
✨ Cultural Value	One of the six major attractions on the Ngong Ping Fun Walk. It links up several mountain retreats and huts, including the Nei Lak Monastery 🧘 and Tei Tong Tsai Po Lam Zen Monastery 🏯, making it one of Hong Kong’s rare Buddhist cultural ancient trails.

Item	Details
🌬️ Natural Wind Gap & Air Convergence	The archway sits at the mouth of a gorge between Lantau Peak 🗻 (Hong Kong’s second-highest peak at 934m) and Nei Lak Shan (751m). Acting as a natural 『wind gap,』 moist sea breezes from Tung Chung Bay rush up the valley and cool down instantly upon reaching the Ngong Ping plateau, making the area around Tung Shan Fat Mun highly prone to heavy mist and fog.
👀 Silhouette & Scenic Views	Looking east from Tung Shan Fat Mun, the view stretches all the way down the narrow Tei Tong Tsai Valley, offering a clear sight of Tung Chung New Town, Hong Kong International Airport at Chek Lap Kok ✈️, and the vast Lingdingyang 🌊. Clear mornings or evenings offer a perfect vantage point where the mountains meet the sea, while foggy days wrap the area in an aura of religious mystery.
🌱 Hydrology & Ecological Intersection	Just below the archway lies one of the upstream sources of the Tung Chung River. Thanks to long-term legal protection and its location within the Po Lin Monastery conservation area 🏯, the surrounding native secondary forest 🌳 remains perfectly intact. Rare plants native to Lantau, such as the Hong Kong Camellia 🍵 and Incense Tree, can be found here, and it also serves as a habitat for the Short-legged Toad 🐸 and rare butterflies 🦋.
🚶 Starting Point of Fat Mun Ancient Trail	The Fat Mun Ancient Trail extends about 4km downwards from Tung Shan Fat Mun, gently descending along the valley to Shek Mun Kap Village. Built along the mountain contours, the stone steps are stable and not too steep, offering sweeping views of Tung Chung 🏘️ and the airport ✈️ along the way.
🌫️ Unique Microclimate & Ecology	Due to the high elevation and valley-facing position, the area is shrouded in mist year-round. During spring and summer, stunning sea-of-clouds spectacles often form, turning the gateway and surrounding woods into a dreamlike 『Buddhist Kingdom of the South Sky』; surrounded by dense secondary and fung shui forests, the trail boasts incredibly rich ecological resources.

Item	Details
🚍 Recommended Route	Tung Chung MTR Station ➔ Take Bus 34 to Shek Mun Kap Village ➔ Lo Han Monastery ⛩️ ➔ Fat Mun Ancient Trail (Tei Tong Tsai Country Trail) ➔ Po Lam Zen Monastery 🏯 ➔ Tung Shan Fat Mun 🏯 ➔ Wisdom Path ➔ Ngong Ping Village
📏 Distance & Ascent	Approx. 4.5 km, with a one-way vertical ascent of around 400 metres.
⏱️ Time Needed	Around 2.5 to 3 hours (depending on how long you stay at the monasteries along the way).
🛤️ Trail Conditions	100% stone steps, paved concrete paths, or stone-paved ancient trails. Excellent trail conditions, but the continuous uphill climb will definitely give your knees and thighs a solid workout.

Item	Details
🤫 In-Depth Travel Etiquette	Many of the retreats and monasteries along the way (such as Po Lam Zen Monastery 🏯) are places of quiet practice for monks and nuns. When entering these areas and the ancient trail, please keep your voice down 🤫, do not make loud noises, strictly avoid littering 🚯, and do not wander into the private living quarters of the monks.
💡 Hiking Tips	If you want to retrace the steps of the grand masters and monks on their pilgrimage back in the day, you can choose to start from Tung Chung Town Centre, pass through Shek Mun Kap and Tei Tong Tsai, and hike up the Fat Mun Ancient Trail to arrive at Tung Shan Fat Mun 🏯, the walk takes about 2.5 to 3 hours. Although the trail consists of well-maintained stone steps and concrete paths, you will be tackling a continuous 400m vertical climb ⛰️, which demands a fair bit of stamina. Remember to bring plenty of water 💧 before hitting the trail!